Touring Rome - Places to
Visit
The Colosseum
If you intend Touring
Rome your trip is not complete without visiting the
Colosseum. Il Colosseo as the Romans refer to it began life
as the Flavian Amphitheater, an enormous elliptical stadium capable
of seating 50,000 spectators within its six acre
domain.
During the 1st century AD, and for hundreds
of years thereafter, the Colosseum was host to grisly spectacles of
human-human and human-animal combat. Slight evidence of those
activities remains among the ruins, chiefly the underground vaults
and tunnels that served as storage and entrances for the
combatants.
Though the building has suffered repeated
fire and earthquake damage over the centuries, remnants of its
ancient glory can be seen in numerous places.
Looking over the huge arena from atop its 48m
(157ft) height, it isn't difficult to imagine the show below as if
it had happened only yesterday. True, the red brick arches are
crumbling and the slaves and lions are long gone. But this popular
Roman site remains alive with the ghosts of battles past and the
many tourists in its present.
The seats are arranged in layers, almost all
of which look out over the many levels of arch upon arch
surrounding this vast expanse. Sitting in one, a visitor can almost
hear the roar of the crowd as the Emperor's retinue enters through
one of the four entrances used solely by them. The other 76 were
for the average Roman citizen.
Opening in 80 AD after eight years of labor
by 15,000 slaves and engineers, the Colosseum gained its now-common
name from a 40m (130ft) nearby statue, the Colossus. Thought to
have once had Nero's likeness, the statue displayed the face of a
succession of Roman emperor's down the years. Evidence of the base
of the bronze giant can still be seen between the Colosseum and the
Temple of Roma and Venus not far away.
For 100 days after its debut, the arena was
host to celebrations both noble and barbarian (to modern eyes).
Fights to the death among enslaved gladiators, Roman versions of
lion taming, considerably harsher than modern circus acts and many
other displays of violence were common fare.
Seating was arranged by rank - the Emperor
had a box near the base and women who were not part of the Royal
party were relegated to the upper levels. But even from there it
would not have been too difficult to see the results of the combat.
Even from that height it would not have been to hard to see rhinos,
hippos and elephants who were used in the 'shows' along with the
more well-known lions and tigers.
The masts and velarium - a canopy covering
part the large area to provide shade - have disappeared, long ago
succumbing to the changes of the ages. But the immense columns and
walls remain, ranging from Doric on the first story, to Ionic on
the second, finishing with Corinthian on the
third.
Visitors will marvel at the rest of the
architecture, as well, that even today forms the basis of arenas
around the world. It was one of the first, and certainly the
largest and most well-known, to be free-standing. Most prior
examples had been dug out of a hillside, of which many exist in and
near Rome.
Touring Rome - Places to Visit
The Sistine
Chapel
Though named after Pope Sixtus IV, who
commissioned the chapel construction, the Sistine Chapel was given
everlasting fame by Pope Julius II. For, in 1508, it was he who
commissioned Michaelangelo to paint frescoes to cover the 10,000
square foot ceiling.
But on the way to the ceiling there are many
delights for visitors to Rome and Vatican City, of which the
Sistine forms a part. The chapel is nearby the Vatican Museum,
itself worth a day or two. And, St. Peter's is also not far away
with another Michaelangelo masterpiece, the Pieta not to mention
the dome of the basilica.
The chapel itself is on the small side, only
41m (135 ft) by 13.4m (44ft). But within these walls are works of
art that would happily be acquired by any of the major art museums
in the world. All have benefited from a large restoration project
carried out from 1979 to 1999.
Many famous names are represented and many
others that should be better known. There are several Botticelli
works here, including the 1482 Life of Moses and The Punishment of
Korah. Alongside and nearby are Perugino, Ghirlandaio and Rosselli,
master artists of the period.
Of course, the main attraction - and properly
so - remains the Sistine Ceiling. Formerly decorated only with a
bland covering of painted stars, after four years of literally back
breaking labor, Michaelangelo transformed it into the glorious
nine-panel magnum opus it is today.
Drawing from stories in the Old Testament,
Michaelangelo festooned the ceiling with Sibyls, prophets, Noah,
obscure nude males, and - not least - Jehovah giving life to Adam
with the touch of a finger.
Cleaned and restored in the 1990s, the
ceiling shows the magnificent colors of one of the five greatest
painters the world has ever seen. As Goethe described
it:
"Without having seen the Sistine Chapel one
can form no appreciable idea of what one man is capable of
achieving."
Spending four years on a specially
constructed scaffold, the paint nearly making him blind, the great
artist had to devise and supervise a dozen innovations. Just as one
example, an entirely new plaster - intonaco, still in use today -
was created to resist mold and hold the paint
properly.
Though the main sections were completed in
1512, Michaelangelo returned to the work more than 20 years later
to paint the Last Judgment, beginning in 1535 and finishing the
work in 1541. It too is not to be missed. Nor can it be, really,
since it covers the entire wall behind the altar of the Sistine
Chapel.
Among other fascinating aspects is the
depiction of St. Bartholomew, a self-portrait that shows the figure
having his skin flayed. Michaelangelo was heavily criticized at the
time, and by powerful figures, for his frequent depiction of nude
figures. Though he won a temporary victory, the genitalia were
later painted over.
Even those not usually interested in fine art
come away from seeing the Sistine Chapel with a sense of awe. No
visit to Rome is complete without a viewing of this site of so many
masterpieces.
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